Tumblelog by Soup.io
Newer posts are loading.
You are at the newest post.
Click here to check if anything new just came in.

March 22 2016


Step-By-Step Instructions Of Painting


Amateur house painters never had as much help as today. Scores of new paints and equipment placed on the market in the last few years make it possible for the weekend handyman to create his own house as easily as a professional. From one-coat paints to disposable blowtorches, all things have been designed to result in the job go faster, look better and value less.

With the new outside rollers, you can paint an average-size house over a couple of days. Add an extension handle and you can roll a terrace without stooping down, reach a roof without leaving the ground.

Painting Hard Spots

Specialized aids with built-in know, how tackle the difficult spots for you.

Even better, you don't have to spend hours preparing and hours cleaning afterward. Premixed paints, electric-drill attachments and self-dispensing calking guns make short work of preparation. Clearing up is a soap-and-water job for the rubber paints, or perhaps a quick dip in special cleaners to the oils. Disposable dropcloths and paper paint pails are widely-used once and disposed of.

In this section are a couple of tips on techniques and tools that make it easier to paint the house than ever before - not how a "pro" does, perhaps, but much the same results.

The word paint is used to feature paints, varnishes, enamels, shellacs, lacquers, and stains.


• Paints are comprised of mineral pigments, organic vehicles, plus a variety of thinners all combined.
• Varnishes are resins dissolved in organic thinners.
• Enamels are pigmented varnishes.
• Shellac is lac gum dissolved in alcohol.
• Lacquers could possibly be both pigmented or clear - the liquid portion usually is treated nitrocellulose dissolve in thinners.
• Stains could possibly be pigmented oil or a penetrating type.
A number of these materials, such as paints, varnishes, and lacquers, are formulated for specific purposes:
• Outside house paints and exterior varnishes are designed to give good service when exposed to weathering
• Interior wall paints are formulated to offer excellent coverage and good wash-ability.
• Floor enamels are supposed to withstand abrasion.
• Lacquers are formulated for rapid drying.
• There's also formulas which provide extra self-cleaning, fume- resisting, waterproofing, hardening, flexibility, mildew-resisting, potential to deal with fading, and breathing qualities.

Interior paints are widely-used to obtain pleasing decorative effects, improve sanitary conditions, and insure better lighting. These paints could possibly be divided into four types: wall primers; one-coat flats; flat, semigloss, and gloss; and water paints.

Wall primers or primer-sealers usually are meant to be applied directly to bare plaster, wallboard, and similar porous surfaces to supply a uniform, sealed surface for subsequent coats of paint. A normal wall primer may be made from varnish or bodied-oil vehicle and hiding pigments. It really is intended to penetrate only slightly into porous surfaces.

The primers would be better applied with a wide wall brush.

One-coat flat paints are organic-solvent-thinned paints that will accomplish priming, sealing, and take care of coating in one operation. They can be sold in thin paste form so that additional inexpensive thinner may be added and mixed before application to increase the volume of paint by one-fourth or even more.

Flat, semigloss, and gloss interior paints and enamels vary in amount of gloss, hiding power, and also other properties. Paints giving the top hiding power are usually paints of lowest gloss, even though some modern high-gloss enamels also have good hiding power.

Water-thinned interior paints are calcimine, casein, resin-emulsion, and gloss water paints. Calcimine contains powdered whiting and clay blended with an animal-glue binder as well as a preservative. It cannot be recoated, but can be easily washed off before redecorating.

There's no need to remove casein before recoating but, if de-sired, it can be softened by washing with hot solutions of trisodium phosphate. Resin-emulsion paints, marketed in paste form, have to be thinned with water and, when properly made and applied, adhere well to plaster and still provide a good decorative medium. They need not be removed before redecorating, provided the video is in sound condition. This is also true of gloss water paints.

New Paints Offer you Pro's Skill

Painting the house will be easier than ever - driving under the influence the right paint. But it's going to be harder than ever before to pick it.

Years back, paint was paint. One kind looked, smelled, was applied and in the end dried much like another. Everything is different now. Besides oil paints, you can buy a new set of paints. It'll pay out the comission to know about them.

• You can find water paints you need to use outside. (You clean your brushes underneath the faucet and use the backyard hose to get spatters off the shrubbery.)
• There are finishes so tough they withstand even attacks in the neighbors' children.
• There are paints that dry so fast you start the second coat once you finish putting on the 1st.
• There are colors in glittering confusion.

No product can do these things. There are several types, all available with a variety of trade names. The trade names are, to put it kindly, confusing. For instance, two brands from the new paints use "rubber" within their trade names, yet neither is often a rubber-latex paint and each is known as an entirely different form of paint from the other. To obtain the right paint you will need to read the fine print about the label and find out what is actually inside the can.

Vinyl can be a cousin to the tough plastic employed for upholstery and floor tiles, but it comes thinned with water ready for you to brush, roll or spray on. The label on the can may say vinyl, vinyl emulsion, polyvinyl acetate or PVA.

You can use vinyl on virtually any exterior except previously painted wood. It really works fine on wood shingles and shakes, asbestos shingles, brick, stucco, concrete and masonry blocks. One manufacturer says you can even put it on wood clapboard if your clapboard is new and unprimed.

The key advantage of vinyl could be the thinner - water. You obtain all the advantages of easy cleanup which have renedered interior water paints popular.

Suppose it rains while you're working? Vinyl paint dries fast - as soon as 10 to A half-hour - and will withstand a bath after that time. It takes another 12 hours to "cure," at that time forming an exceptionally tough, long-lasting film that stacks up well against weather, sun, salt air and factory smoke.

One precaution: You can't paint with it in cold temperature. The chemical reaction that transforms the river solution into a durable finish will not likely take place if the temperatures are below 50°. (Conventional oil paints don't stick well in cold temperatures, either.)

Some manufacturers recommend their vinyl paints for interior as well as exterior use; others refuse, not so good. You can find vinyls made specifically for interiors.

Definitely good indoors is a new vinyl primer-sealer for use as a base coat under any paint. It dries inside 30 minutes.

You can put it around a place and probably follow immediately together with the finish coat. It is usually applied with brush or roller.

Acrylic will be the second new good name for magic in paints. This is also a plastic-in-water. Solid acrylic you know as the beautiful, glasslike Plexiglas and Lucite.

Indoors is where acrylic shines. It dries quicker than other types, and it keeps its color better, without yellowing. One disadvantage: It costs more.

Some acrylics may also be recommended for exteriors (over the same kinds of materials as vinyl paints). Here it provides a big advantage - it's not necessary to pick your painting weather so carefully. It could be applied on humid days along with cold seasons, provided that the temperature is several degrees above freezing.

Alkyd is surely an old interior paint made newly popular by way of a change in solvent - a super-refined petroleum chemical which has almost no odor. It's not a water paint. You thin it and clean brushes with mineral spirits or turpentine, or, if you need to retain the odorless feature, using the new odorless solvent. (Ask the paint-store man just for that, odorless solvent).

Alkyd has solid advantages overriding the slight cleanup in-convenience. It's exceptionally tough and extremely resistant to scrubbing. It stacks up well in the troublesome areas - trim, bathroom, kitchen. Which is easy to apply, to become a smooth, even finish clear of streaks and brush marks.

The alkyds have little odor, but don't forget how the solvent is a petroleum product as well as vapor is there in case you can't smell it. Celebrate you sick plus it burns very easily, such as the vapor of older paint solvents. So play safe: Keep windows open whilst flames away.

The existing reliable are not to be overlooked either. Conventional oil paints can now be had in deodorized version, created using the same odorless solvent employed in the alkyds. And oil paint has much in their favor. It is sold everywhere; its virtues and faults are established through centuries useful; it makes a tough film on almost any surface; it offers the greatest color range; and it is often cheaper.

Water-thinned rubber-latex paint is definitely an old reliable, though it is only about A decade old. It is the reason for a big percentage of all paint sold and is also still the most widely accessible of the easy-to-use finishes. One new type is often a combination vinyl-rubber paint which is said to do a better job on interiors than either vinyl or rubber alone since it dries faster, lasts longer and possesses less sheen.

Paint Selection

Most paints are ordered ready-mixed but, in their selection, consideration needs to be given to the fact that surfaces vary within their adaptability to paint and atmospheric or another conditions having an adverse impact on paint performance. Beyond the normal weathering action of the weather, outside house paints are now and again exposed to other attacking elements, for example corrosive fumes from factories or excessive quantities of wind-driven dust.

For localities where such conditions exist, self-cleaning paints ought to be selected. These paints are usually so designated for the label. Concrete, plaster, and metal surfaces each present special problems in painting. As an illustration, paint for use on masonry or new plaster have to be resistant to dampness and alkalies, and paints utilized on steel must have rust-inhibitive properties.

Color - The paint makers are over to sell the lady of the house and color is come-on. They are tempting her using a kaleidoscope's variety; one firm offers more than 6,000 different shades.

Practically every manufacturer includes a "color system," a fat book of color chips with instructions for duplicating each chip. This is achieved by intermixing cans of colored paint, by having a concentrated color with a can of white or colored paint, or with the help of concentrated color or colors to a can of neutral "base" paint. As well as for those who don't want any guesswork there's the Color Carousel that mixes the paints right in the store. Whatever the method, the result is a range of colors such as no amateur painter has seen.


Paste paints, like aluminum, resin-emulsion, and lead-in-oil, should be stirred with a stiff paddle and reduced to painting consistency with the liquids recommended about the manufacturer's labels.

Paints in powdered form have to have the addition of a liquid to organize them for use. The manufacturer's directions for the amount of oil, varnish, water, or other vehicle required ought to be followed.

"Boxing" is a good way of mixing paints. Since paint is really a mixture of solids and liquids, it is essential that it be mixed thoroughly before using. To accomplish this, the greater portion of the liquid items in the can needs to be poured in a clean bucket somewhat bigger the paint can. Then, with a stiff paddle, the settled pigment from the original container must be loosened and any lumps finished. After this, mix the information in the container thoroughly, employing a figure 8 motion, and follow with a lifting and beating motion. Continue stirring the mixture vigorously while slowly adding the liquid that has been previously poured off the top. Complete the blending by pouring the paint from one container to the other several times until the entire amount is of uniform consistency.

Paste and powder paints needs to be mixed in quantities sufficient for immediate use only, as these materials often become unfit for application if able to stand for three or more hours.

If paints have been allowed to stand and difficult lumps or skin have formed, the skin or scum should be removed, and the paint might be stirred and strained through screen wire or through a few thicknesses of cheesecloth.

If a desired shade just isn't obtainable in custom-or ready-mixed paints, white paints may be tinted with colors-in-oil. To get this done, mix the color-in-oil using a small amount of turpentine or mineral spirits and stir this to the white paint, somewhat at a time. If a blended color is desired, many color may be added, for instance a chrome green and chrome yellow pigments to make a lettuce green shade.

Don't be the product, buy the product!